I have already written about cake. I have sampled muffins, cupcakes and lemon cake galore. All the evidence is on this blog and cannot be denied. But what of the Portuguese pastry? This is the tale of my encounter with Joaquim's Pastéis de Belem, in case you missed it the first time round.....
Chaussee de Charleroi is busy, as usual. Meanwhile, in le Petit Forcado’s kitchen the oven is busy heating to 445 degrees, ready for its next intake of pastéis de belém. “I make everything by hand”, says Joaquim, waving his hands to illustrate his point. He flashes me an impish grin; “Everything you’ve read about me is true, even my bad temper.”
After
many years of running a restaurant next door, this former political refugee
from Lisbon now just concentrates on his first love, baking. Most of the work is done on the weekend, when
there can be as many as 15 to 20 different choices. “I can’t do any more that that, otherwise my
wife will give me the red card”, he laughs.
One of his weekend specialities is “ le mojito”: a fresh-sounding
concoction of mint, natural rum essence and lime; and then there’s a fiddly
sounding one involving 16 sheets of puff pastry, lard, apples, cinnamon and
almonds. Recipes do not always work out,
however. One found online was judged to
be “immangeable!”; and then there was the orangey cake which
tasted too much of eggs, and was also summarily rejected. Food allergy sufferers need not look on
grinding their teeth, for Joaquim considers himself a bit of an expert at gluten-free
cakes. All his pastries freeze well (one
of his customers regularly stocks up before she returns to Norway, so Britain
should be OK). His customers are from the whole world,
probably only 1% are Portuguese.
The
famous pastéis de belém are offered in two versions: the more traditional one
with crème fraîche, and the much more common milk version. From sight you couldn’t tell the difference,
but the crème fraîche version has a creamier lemony flavour while the milk
version is flavoured with cinnamon.
Nearby the lemon puff pastry parcels
lie innocently – invented by Coimbra nuns as a use for leftover egg yolks (the
whites were used on their hair, but to what effect, one wonders?)
“When
everything’s made by hand, sometimes it doesn’t work out”, Joaquim smiles. Technically wrong, perhaps, but still yummy
wonderful. We’re offered slices of one
such “gâteau raté” whose goey
orangey moistness leaves us stammering, stuttering in our praise. We buy up the rest of Joaquim’s “mistake
cake”, and later my Mum confesses that this is her favourite. Meanwhile landlady, neighbour and housemates
are all asking: where can I get hold of these?
Back
to the selection. This weekday
lunch-time, there are around 6 different cakes in the window, and the coffee,
raspberry, chocolate and belém are depleting fast. The reason?
“I only make what I want, when I want and how I want to!” So I would advise you to come early, because
when they’re gone, they’re gone, although Joaquim will still be there to
welcome you with his pots of jam and humour, which do not sell out quite so
fast.
Each cake costs 1 euro 50. If you don’t know where to begin, buy one of everything, but don’t miss the mistake cake.
Chaussée
de Charleroi, 190c
1060
Saint-Gilles
+32
(0)2 539 00 19
Open
Tuesday to Saturday 11:30 to 17:00, except public holidays