City wanderings - and a pilgrimage to some of the best eating and drinking spots in Brussels. Or maybe not eating or drinking - ah, oh well.

Saturday, December 11, 2010

Chez Moeder Lambic


There's something about the St.Gilles area of Brussels that reminds me of Montmartre.  Perhaps it's the eerily atmospheric streetlighting and cobblestones, but I certainly wouldn't say the buildings are similar.  Anyway, wandering the streets I managed to lose my way (something I find easy to do in St.Gilles!)  By a roundabout route I did make it to Chez Moeder Lambic, nestled in the shadow of the impressive Maison communale. 

I was meeting a party of rowers, discerning consumers of good Belgian beer.  There's a good selection listed on blackboards and you can order portions of cheese too.  On a Friday evening, finding sufficient bench space to park ourselves proved difficult, and getting served from the tantalising beer selection took some perseverance.  Don't let that put you off: come on a weekday evening and take your time savouring a Christmas beer.  In fact although the place is tiny, it's well worth forgoing a seat there at any time.

Afterwards we headed out for dinner at a restaurant called La Cigale, where I sampled a Super des Fagnes beer.  Keep an eye out for that one: apparently you won't find it very often in Brussels.



By the way, losing your way in St.Gilles is definitely to be recommended.  You'll come across interesting art nouveau architecture and perhaps a window display like this one.  I think it's a tasteful snowglobe - others may disagree!



rue de Savoie 68
1050 Brussels
02 544 16 99

Tuesday, November 30, 2010

Café Belga


Going to the supermarket on a Monday is a regular, unfortunate necessity for those of us who find better things to do on Saturdays and realise, belatedly, on Sunday afternoon that we have no food in the house and everywhere useful is closed.  After joining in the supermarket dash I diverted to Café Belga because this is just the place to redeem my Monday evening.  I love flopping onto the couches lining the walls, preferably in some dark corner where I can scribble, observe others or chat away to my heart's content.  On this particular evening my corner is shared with a girl busy knitting, waiting for a man who eventually turns up (late).


Belga is housed in an art-deco style building resembling a passenger steamship.  At night, this is an achingly cool bar with photogenic bar staff attracting a wide, alternative-leaning crowd; who often linger for hours on the surrounding square on Summer evenings.  By day a diverse group of people sip mint tea, juice or beer, while tapping away on laptops or catching up with other office workers or stay-at- home mums.  Pounding beats attract large groups on Friday and Saturday nights – don’t expect your voice to be heard, just savour your drink and let time and conversation drift past you.  These days smokers good-naturedly puff outside, making the atmosphere inside heaps better than it was. 


What to drink?  Hot chocolate, blended fresh juices or mint tea on a cold winter's afternoon; or choose from the extensive selection of Belgian beers day or night.  This might be just the place to try out the stronger ones (Chimay bleue, Bush  or Delirium Tremens, anyone?) because once you're esconced in Belga you will find it hard to leave.   




Place Flagey, 18
http://www.cafebelga.be/index.php
Also sometimes hosts jazz on Sundays

Saturday, November 27, 2010

Het Warm Water



Temperatures in Brussels have already started to plummet, but at least today we had sun and a dusting of snow, rather than the cold, drizzle and grey of recent weeks.  So we headed out to the Marolles, and stopped here on the rue des renards, near the flea market on Place de Jeu de Balle. 



We enjoyed two wholesome brunches (Rollebeek and au bord de la Senne), with Vivaldi playing in the background: both helping to sustain us through our half-hour walk afterwards.  You can choose from various tapas-sized options: eggs (scrambled, boiled, fried or omelette); muesli, vegetable quiche; slices of charcuterie (including pressed head for the brave); an intimidating slither of smelly Brussels cheese with pears; and salads.  There are also plenty of a la carte options and cakes and desserts.  Plus homemade jams to take away at 3 euros a pot, Brussels specialities, and chicory... in soup and salads and no doubt in other things too.  
Really liked this place, so I was dismayed to read a notice inside announcing the owner's intention to sell up by the end of June 2011, after 18 years - either to continue in its current incarnation or as a new venture - so enjoy it while you can.

Stop Press: I understand that ZABO has taken over on a short-term basis, offering quiches, tarts and the like - Open Thursday to Sunday 8:00 - 17:00

25 rue des renards
1000 Brussels
02 513 91 59